the phoenicians

Are you the type of person who gets hooked on a type of food and eats it at every opportunity without getting the least bit tired of it? I am. My obsessions usually last a month or two, sometimes less, sometimes more.


My latest fixation is the pita wrap--any and all Mediterranean-style chicken and flatbread combinations are welcome in my mouth (preferably not at the same time). It began with the chicken gyro from that little diner in Willis, VA, and has since escalated. That said, I’ve taken it upon myself to discover the tastiest Mediterranean pita wrap in the Albany area (so far I’ve found 13 potential restaurants). I realize this doesn’t interest the majority of you, but hopefully it’ll be a useful resource for my readers in the Capital District. (Anybody? Bueller? Bueller?) Plus, it gives me an excuse to eat a lot.

My first excursion took me to The Phoenicians Restaurant, which I picked solely due to its recognition as the Best Middle Eastern food by the Metroland powers-that-be. I’ll be the judge of THAT, thank you very much.


Upon entering the small building, the first things I saw were two vertical rotisseries, each slowly rotating a huge hunk o’ meat. That settled it--I’d have to get the chicken shwarma. I placed my order, requesting just tomato and lettuce as toppings, with the garlic sauce on the side.

Service was prompt, and before I knew it, I was gleefully ripping into my wrap. First impression, of the visual variety: Disappointment. The pita was thin and falling to bits, the tomatoes were anemic, and the chicken was sparse and didn’t appear to be very moist. I tried not to let the aesthetical let-down cloud my judgment of what was to come. Second impression, of the flavor variety: Dry and relatively lackluster. I could detect no seasoning in the chicken, which I guess I should’ve expected since it was shaved right off the spit. I added the sauce. Third impression, also of the flavor variety: Hello, garlic! This was some powerfully pungent sauce, and although it did provide some wet for my whistle and a whole lot of attitude, I just couldn’t seem to find a happy wrap-to-sauce proportion.


I need you to understand that this wasn’t a bad wrap--I had no trouble eating it in its entirety and enjoying myself as I did so. The highlight for me was the occasional crunchy bit of chicken; too bad they were few and far between. Meh, you could do much worse for $6.99 + tax. However, I certainly hope the eaters from Metroland sampled and were impressed by some other dish.

My mission has now taken a turn for the serious and I vow to find something better on my next trip.

The Phoenicians Restaurant
(located between Rt. 155 and Colonie Center)
1686 Central Avenue Colonie, N.Y. 12205
(518) 464-4444

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ali baba

Alternate title: SEARCH OVER.


I’m so glad I took on this quest for the ultimate chicken pita wrap. I’ve been eating some good food, seeing some interesting places (and taking some inadvertent tours), and meeting some really kind people. My latest excursion took me to a place I’d visited before--Ali Baba, eatery of the angry, hirsute man.

I didn’t dare take my camera with me this time, but it wouldn’t have mattered--the owner wasn’t there this time. The place hasn’t changed at all since my first visit, and I was especially elated to see the wood-fired oven (more on that later). I promptly placed my order for the chicken durum wrap, sauce on the side ($6.45 + tax). I also failed to resist the small appetizer plate, which included portions of five appetizers of your choice ($9.95 + tax). Variety may be the spice of life, but I think my life is sufficiently seasoned--I got two parts hummus, two parts ezme (super spicy tomato dip), and one part barbunya (giant white beans drenched* in olive oil and spices).

*Yeah, “drenched” may be an understatement. I went ahead and poured most of that grease off.

Far and away, the highlight of my day was watching the bread-making process. It began with the Breadmaster (as I’ve taken it upon myself to dub him) hacking off a bit of premade dough and rolling it into the perfect size and thickness for optimum puffing. To give you an idea of its elasticity, I witnessed him pick up the rolled dough and a whip it like you whip a wet shirt to get the wrinkles out. (Amusingly, he did this in the face of the kid hanging around the kitchen, flicking flour all over him.) He must roll out hundreds of those things each day, and he certainly has it down to an art.


Massive, providing many a moment of savory chew-phoria.

After rolling and flicking the dough, he sprinkled on some nigella seeds, placed it on a wooden paddle and slid it into the 460F wood-fired oven. This is the point at which I became mesmerized, spellbound, and completely captivated. The puffing is simply extraordinary--the totally flat disc becomes this perfect round ball of soft, pliable bread. I could be entertained for hours by this process, as long as I was fed a steady supply of said bread.

I’ll be honest--part of the reason I got the appetizer plate was so I could get another piece of lavash. You can imagine my disappointment when I realized it came with a smaller, thicker piece instead. Regardless of that downer, I still enjoyed what I was given.


The thicker bread was actually better for scooping up the hummus (a little bland) and ezme (it set my mouth on fire, so I loved it). The beans were scrumptious—slightly sweet and cooked to the point where they actually melted in my mouth, no chewing required.

Now, the point of my visit--the wrap. Apparently, the man misunderstood my request for sauce on the side, giving me extra sauce while still slathering the innards with it. So much for consistency within my reviews, but it was so darned delicious, I didn’t care. Perfectly creamy and dilled, with just enough garlic to let me know it was there. Although the glorious, matchless bread burst at some point in the making, I managed to devour the entire wrap with no problems. The chicken was moist and only very lightly seasoned, but that just gave me an excuse to use more sauce.


This is one terrific restaurant and I won’t be waiting another year to visit again. In fact, I expect to order exactly the same thing (with an extra piece of lavash on the side).

Ali Baba
2243 15th St.
Troy, NY 12180

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al baraki

Getting tired of these reviews yet? Tough. I’m having a blast.


Although my list is still pretty long, when I saw mention of Al Baraki on All Over Albany, I took that as a sign that I should seek it out next.

Al Baraki is not a restaurant. It is a man behind a counter in a space half the size of my bedroom. The kitchen portion makes up the most of the room, and there’s a little space to wait for your order to be prepared.

I ordered the chicken shawarma with my standard tomato and lettuce. I asked for the garlic sauce on the side, a request blatantly frowned upon by the cook. He also wanted me to put pickles in the wrap, but since I’m trying to keep things consistent, I resisted.

The already-seasoned chicken was plopped onto a panini press (yes, like at Anton’s, I could watch what was being done)(I was also happy to see the cook put on gloves)(but alas, there was no hairnet) and sizzled. Although I got the small wrap ($4.75 + tax), a whole piece of pita was used. Used and filled. Three of the pieces of chicken were added to the bed of lettuce and tomato and the entire wrap was then placed back in the press and heated through. This was an awesome touch.


I really, really liked this wrap. The seasoning of the chicken was completely different from that of Anton’s (bliss), but just as delicious. I detected some familiar spices, including cinnamon, so you know I was smitten. My only regret was that the hunks of chicken were in finger-form rather than more easy-to-eat pieces. I guess I’ll be seeing that a lot and will just have to come to terms with it.

The pita, although thin, held together until the very end and kept the innards from spilling everywhere. The sauce, I must say, was not a sauce at all, but a thick and highly potent paste similar to that of Beirut Restaurant. The folks at All Over Albany weren’t kidding--the vampires will keep their distance from anyone who so much as holds a container of this stuff!


Yes, that's a vicious kitten wound on my finger.
They're fur-ocious. Get it? Ha.

All in all, this was a wrap that was well-worth the cost. The appearance of the place is a bit off-putting, but I’m ready, willing, able and eager to return.

Al Baraki
185 Lark St.
Albany, NY 12210

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anton's

Next up in the hunt for Mediterranean chicken wrap supremacy was Anton’s. Truthfully, I wouldn’t have even known about this place had someone not raved about its gyros. Thank heavens I happened to read that post, thank heavens I was able to find the place, and thank heavens they were open on Sunday.


Folks, this was an entirely different gastronomic experience from my journey to The Phoenicians. I realize that Greek and Lebanese foods and techniques are not completely interchangeable, but good grief--the differences were astounding!

Let me begin at the beginning. Upon entering, I was immediately enamored of this little diner--it consists of a few tables and a countertop, and the “kitchen” is comprised of a deep fryer, a vertical rotisserie, an oven, and a grill. Can you say hole in the wall? I loved it. Also, before I get to the food, I need to mention that Michael Anton, the owner and chef, was extremely garrulous and likeable. Apparently he and his wife opened the place last September and things have been going strong ever since.

Now. The grub. I ordered the chicken souvlaki ($6.75 + tax) with lettuce and tomato, requesting the tzatziki on the side (I’m trying to keep the variables as consistent as possible). Bonus--I got to watch Michael prepare my food! That type of thing always excites me.


The chicken was tossed on the grilled and squirted with some sort of fat-based juice. While that happily cooked, Michael dashed around like a whirling dervish, putting together multiple orders. When the chicken was done and properly finished off with some fresh lemon juice, the pita (which I was thrilled to see was thick and fluffy) was briefly warmed on the grill top and my wrap was assembled.

When I unfurled the foil wrapping, cubes of chicken fell out--it was stuffed to the brim, and that was fine by me. I like getting my money’s worth. First impression, made by my ever-judgmental eyes: Ample, juicy, and seasoned chicken encased in a perfect pita. Second impression, made by my even-more-judgmental tastebuds: Bliss. I’m honestly not exaggerating--I had a moment of absolute delight in which I praised God, Michael Anton, and the Greek nationality in general.

The spicing of the chicken was wonderful, and it was so very succulent. It was so moist and juicy, in fact, that no sauce was required, but I applied it anyway and folks, this was flawless tzatziki. The amount of garlic was right, there was dill and cucumber, and it was oh-so-cool and creamy. I didn’t want the meal to end! Speaking of the end, as sad as it was, it was also grand, because the chicken jus had accumulated at the bottom of the foil, leaving a sopping wet bit of pita that tasted unbelievably amazing.


Incidentally, I now know that one of the best dishes here is the EJ wrap, so that’s something to keep in mind for next time. And there will be a next time.

Complete and utter consumption satisfaction, that’s what I experienced at Anton’s. I may have already reached the pinnacle of Mediterranean wraps, and I'm only on restaurant #2. If it gets much better than this, I may not survive.

Anton’s
(across from St. Peter’s Hospital)
577 New Scotland Ave.
Albany, NY 12208
(518) 453-9191

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mamoun's

After back-to-back-to-back-to-back tiny little restaurant spaces, I was a bit surprised by the décor of Mamoun’s Mideast Cafe. There was a bar! With stools! And more than 10 tables! And subtle music! I was ready for my taste buds to be astounded.


I placed my order for the chicken kabob sandwich ($5.99 + tax) with tomato and lettuce, sauce (tahini—woohoo!) on the side. I was served with a wrap half the size of all others I’ve tried--not a good initial impression. I opened the foil to find a pita pocket with char-grilled hunks of juicy chicken placed atop the lettuce and tomato. After spending way too much time trying to figure out how best to maneuver the wrap such that I got a bite of everything, I finally just dove in. And the bottom fell out.



Yeah, the pita was pathetic and I just wasn’t a fan of how the entire thing was put together. Although I really enjoyed the char on the chicken and the fact that it was tender and moist, there was no seasoning on it of which to speak. That was disappointing. What was even more disappointing was the tahini. I love tahini, and this has been my first wrap making use of it. Mamoun’s was nice and creamy but way too salty--I could barely choke down a bite containing it, and that's coming from a salt-addict lover (just ask anyone who's ever dined with me). I was hoping it would salvage what was heading toward being a total disaster, but it didn't.


My verdict? Unfortunately, I don’t think I got my money’s worth here. It was something I could easily replicate at home, and with much neater and less-frustrating results.

Mamoun’s Mideast Café
206 Washington Ave.
Albany, NY 12206

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beirut restaurant

I hate getting lost (but love seeing others in such a state). I pride myself on an innate sense of direction most commonly associated with the male gender of our species. When it inevitably happens, though, I get frustrated and angry (not at myself, mind you, but at the louts who designed the road layout in whatever area I’m currently lost).



So, yes, I got a bit turned around in my efforts to find Beirut Restaurant in Troy, NY. Good things had been said about the family-owned Lebanese eatery, and I was anxious to try their take on the pita wrap. I ended up taking an unintentional tour of the Capital Region, but being the stubborn mule that I am, I drove until I found the place, thinking to myself that it had better be worth it.

It wasn’t worth it. Let me amend that--I’m glad I found the homey little restaurant, but I won’t go back unless I happen to be in the area. I certainly don’t want to smear the place, as the owner and his father are just about the nicest folks I’ve encountered in this area--super-sincere and going to great lengths to please.


Let’s talk about the food. I got the chicken shawarma ($5 plus tax). The pita, although a step up from that of The Phoenicians, was sad, thin, and droopy. The chicken, however, was spiced to perfection with a variety of seasonings that I couldn’t even begin to list. It was moist and succulent, too, but clearly not the shaved-off-the-spit type--it was in big chicken-tender-like hunks which weren’t a joy to rip apart. The tomato and lettuce (the least relevant ingredients, of course, but important all the same) were practically nonexistent. And the garlic paste--good gracious. It’s pure garlic, and simply not my cup of tea.

I hate getting lost.

Beirut Restaurant
184 River Street
Troy, NY 12180
(518) 270-9404

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